tinkerz
Hey there, thanks again for letting me test this machine out.

First, let me just say the prints coming off the machine are great, all have been PLA and Gnomes, but they are all looking awesome, even the half gnome. And this is the only time I've ever had BuildTak work as a build surface without adding glue or hairspray. So well done.

First off, feature request, or if it's already there please tell me where, the ability to turn off the LED lighting. Stealth mode is great for not interfering, but it's be great to be able to turn off the bright LEDs as well for light discipline. The printer doesn't need to see to print and it's a bit bright to be a night light. ;-)

Print failure #1, this was an expected failure and not anything that the printer did wrong. The Proto-Pasta PLA (certain ones) doesn't like being printed with the door closed. Not something that needs to be fixed, but something to be aware of, PLA in a warm enclosure can cause jams, so something to keep in mind. That said, The MH PLA and v3 of Proto-Pasta printed fine even with the door closed. And the prints look great, you've obviously spent time dialing in the print settings/slicer profile.

Loading jams - These are intermittent and I can't seem to recreate them consistently. Will keep updated if I can figure out what causes it or when it happens.

Bed movement - Again, inconsistent, the one time I had a camera ready to record it it didn't happen. Grr.. anyways, the bed after a print completes will go to lower and both z axis don't move at the same time, it does one side, then the other so it essentially goes until it can't on one side, then the other and then back to the first sorta stair stepping  down. And oh, it's loud when it does this. I'll keep trying to get a video.

Menu latency and inconsistency - While trying to resolve the load jam I used the unload filament button. Only it didn't do anything... so I pressed it a few more times. I figured it was simply not responding. And then suddenly 5 minutes later (yes it was a significant time later) it starts moving around and unloading. And it didn't do it just once, it tried to do it for every time I had pressed the button trying to get it to unload. Once I realized it was stuck in a loop trying to do all those I shut it off.

Overall, the prints are great, the problem all come down to consistency in things but not the print quality, that's consistent. Sometimes the bed does the funky lowering making noise thing, sometimes the filament jams during load/print start, sometimes the bed lowers after print completion all the way to the bottom, sometimes not.

Oh, and then there is the spelling errors on the prompt screens, that keeps triggering my OCD [Ok, no I don't really have OCD, it just makes me twitch. ;-) ]

That's all for now.
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John Kray
Thanks for all the feedback.

I'm glad to hear you have been pleased with the print quality and that the BuildTak has been working. 

Regarding the interior lighting, Max also brought this up. This is one of those things we didn't really think of as we never use the printer anywhere that would be an issue. I totally understand the need to be able to control the lighting. The next firmware update already includes lighting control that will be located in the Macros menu. The options are 100% brightness, 50% brightness, and completely off. The only issue is that the lighting is currently connected directly to the power supply and needs to be connected to the heater 2 output on the Duet for this feature to work. 

The print that failed, was it do to a jam mid print? What temp was being used on the hotend? Also, it would not hurt to check and make sure the heatsink fan on the back of the tool head is spinning when the hotend is at temp.  Dropping the print temp 5C even 10C from what you would normally use is frequently necessary for success in an enclosure with materials like PLA.

Please keep us updated on loading jams. I am aware that these happen from time to time. The multi-material feeder is very complex compared to standard extruder systems and we are still trying to completely squash all the loading/unloading issues.  

We may have found the problem with the weird bed movement. We'll need a bit more time to know for sure if we have solved the problem, but a fix will hopefully be part of the next firmware update.

I was noticing some funkyness in the menus when I set up the test print at Proto Pasta. I hadn't seen that when testing your unit at our office. It's possible your panel was not updated to the latest firmware (1.22) which could have something to do with it.  A note about the unload button is that it is for unloading the filament if it has been loaded all the way to the nozzle, which means the hotend must be pre-heated. If it was not, this may have caused some problems. If you just need to remove filament after a print, the printer should unload the filament from the nozzle at the end of a print, or when you cancel a print. So long as the filament selector is not in front of the bay you wish to remove the filament from it should be able to just be pulled out.  I realize the user probably expects there to be an unload button, and we will be adding that which will essentially just ensure that the selector has disengaged whichever bay the user is trying to unload.

Yes, we have been a little lazy about fixing menu typos, since we have been the only ones using it for the most part until now. We will check and fix typos for the next firmware update, after which feel free to point out any further spelling/typo errors you see. 
John
Found of Hydra Research LLC, developers of the Nautilus 3D printer and providers of 3D printing services.
https://www.hydraresearch3d.com/
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BradyHoover_Designs
first layer difficulties: i've been having an issue setting the first layer it feels i've used every offset 1.0 to 2.0mm but am having either squish or nozzle buildup. i'm wondering if the probe is giving me some difficulties since it keeps getting ran across the brush.
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John Kray
first layer difficulties: i've been having an issue setting the first layer it feels i've used every offset 1.0 to 2.0mm but am having either squish or nozzle buildup. i'm wondering if the probe is giving me some difficulties since it keeps getting ran across the brush.


When I had it the office first layers were going down just fine. You could try wiping the filament sensor area with an IPA on a paper towel. Perhaps there is some dust build up.

We will be looking into alternate methods of removing the debris from that since we noticed how much damage the wire brush is doing to the brass nozzles.
John
Found of Hydra Research LLC, developers of the Nautilus 3D printer and providers of 3D printing services.
https://www.hydraresearch3d.com/
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BradyHoover_Designs
i think i'm getting closer by the .5mm step.

i began a journal to document results and success/failures with the machine it's proven helpful so far i'll bring it in next week
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John Kray
i think i'm getting closer by the .5mm step.

i began a journal to document results and success/failures with the machine it's proven helpful so far i'll bring it in next week



The z offset must be set in config-override.g, otherwise, it will be overwritten during Firmware updates. Adjust the bolded value to change the z offset, high values bring the nozzle closer to the bed. Z1.6 is the default value. If this line is not in you config-override.g paste it in and save the changes. Make sure to turn the printer off and on between each z offset change in order for the change to take effect. 


G31 P500 X-25 Y25 Z1.6 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
John
Found of Hydra Research LLC, developers of the Nautilus 3D printer and providers of 3D printing services.
https://www.hydraresearch3d.com/
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BradyHoover_Designs
John Kray wrote:



The z offset must be set in config-override.g, otherwise, it will be overwritten during Firmware updates. Adjust the bolded value to change the z offset, high values bring the nozzle closer to the bed. Z1.6 is the default value. If this line is not in you config-override.g paste it in and save the changes. Make sure to turn the printer off and on between each z offset change in order for the change to take effect. 


G31 P500 X-25 Y25 Z1.6 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height


i've been using this as a starting point but it seems i'm not getting consistent results. i'll restart and just use a calibration cube to make for a simple first layer to level. i'll make .2 increments in the override file and report my results.
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